Internet [and lack of] and holidays in the mountains

 

The Awe-inspiring Taurus Mountains [Toros Dağları] of Turkey 

Photo by Zeynel Cebeci

Three weeks without internet starts off as a challenge in this day and age.
Then you relax and simply enjoy the holiday. Especially when staying in a rather remote corner of the Taurus Mountains, where there is so much to explore.

One day we travelled for an hour along a mountain road, through villages clinging precariously to the hillsides, to reach a Trout Restaurant. The trout are in tanks fed by a spring. Downhill, on a level patch of land is the open air restaurant, well shaded by plane trees and bounded by a river.

The meal of freshly grilled trout, chips and various salads, 

tastes delicious in the fresh air.

We sit on long benches, with cushions - [or else there are hammocks] -as the diners take a siesta after the meal. The sound of the river burbling past is a lullaby, and there are butterflies dancing in the branches that wave gently overhead. 

Kirkpinar Trout Restaurant, Alihoca Koy, Pozanti.

After the siesta, the restaurant owner brings tea and a plate of fruit from his garden.

Who cares about internet, anyway.

Of silk, nightingales and sorrows

 and of the passage of time which allows some healing.

Let's start with a pleasant and timeless item - the nightingales singing their melodies

in the woodlands along the River Gardon at Mialet

    

Mialet is a small town on a hillside in the Cevennes, a rural area, which was once home to a large community of French Protestants, or Huguenots. Their strict code of conduct meant they were hardworking, and usually skilled craftsmen. In this region of France, they were involved in the Silk industry, breeding silkworms, spinning the threads and weaving it into beautiful cloth, with a lustrous sheen, as well as exquisite designs. 

Spools of dyed silks at the Silk Museum in Saint-Hippolyte du Fort, Gard.

Silk was incredibly expensive. To avoid paying precious money to buy it from abroad, King Henry IV ordered the development of this industry. He also allowed religious tolerance [Edict of Nantes, 1598], as the region was mainly Protestant. However, in 1685, his grandson, Louis XIV, determined to impose one religion on France and make everyone follow the Church of Rome. He revoked the Edict of Nantes, and set up a cruel persecution of conversion or death. Huguenots were forbidden to leave the country, but as we know, they did in huge numbers, impoverishing France for generations. They brought their various skills to the benefit of the countries where they took refuge. 

During the years of intolerance, the Huguenots would meet in secret places, caverns or remote spots in the hills, to listen to a service. It was often a game of cat and mouse. Whole troops of dragoons constantly hunted them down. From 1685 until Louis's death in 1715, the atrocities were terrible, with forced conversions, entire villages massacred or burnt to the ground, men sent to the galleys, women to prison and any Protestant pastors tortured and killed. Thankfully, more enlightened leaders restored some degree of religious tolerance after this nightmare period. 

Today the sufferings and the indomitable resistance are commemorated every year in an open air ceremony on the first Sunday in September at the Mas Soubeyran, now the Museum of the Desert close to Mialet. The descendants of Huguenots who were forced to flee the persecution, come back from all over the world to celebrate their faith and love of their country of origin.  

 

The Musée du Désert [courtesy of Wikipedia Commons]

For more information on the Assembly of the Desert, see this link.

https://www.huguenotsociety.org.uk/blog/lassemblee-du-desert-1911-2021

And to end on a lighter note, here are some photos of the quiet, rural area 

 and one of a few of the luscious silks woven in the factories of the region.

The old mill on the river at Mialet

 

The Bridge of the Camisards [Protestant rebels in the repression] 

photo by  Daniel VILLAFRUELA

Examples of silk clothing in the Museum. 

[photo by Maison Rouge, musée des vallées Cévenoles]

The Huguenot Cross. In times of persecution, the dove was replaced by a pearl, to signify tears. [Image -copyright - Huguenot Society of South Africa ]

The middle son

 Do you feel sympathetic towards a vulnerable Regency hero ?

Costume Parisien , courtesy of Wikipedia

Since time began the middle son has found his position difficult. The oldest has importance and responsibility, the youngest gets an easier deal. How is Number 2 going to make an impression?

The three Montailhac brothers are all very different, but loyal and loving to each other, even if there is some rivalry. Arnaut, the second son, feels a failure when he compares himself to his older brother, Henri, a skilled diplomat. In addition, his younger brother, Joachim, always very close to the land, manages the estate, both land and stock.

Thus both Arnaut's brothers have responsible roles and enjoy their work. Arnaut is desperately seeking a way to do something worthy with his life. It doesn't help that he's the handsome one, and the ladies all find him irresistible. He doesn't want to be considered a worthless rake. 

His mother is also concerned. She tells him, "stop chasing girls just to amuse yourself, "

    "But, mother, I don’t chase them," he protested, "really, I don’t."

    "It is time for you to settle down,’ his mother announced, waving her fan earnestly. "you will discover how wonderful it is to be happily married."

     He couldn't help laughing at her hopeful expression. Then he heaved a deep sigh. "Mother, I have nothing to offer a wife. Compared to Henri, I haven’t achieved anything worthwhile so far."

So how can Arnaut deal with his vulnerability? 

What role is there for him to show his positive qualities? Entrusted [at last] with a quest, he needs courage, endurance, diplomatic skills, and at the same time he has to fight off an excited gaggle of London ladies, all enchanted by his stunning good looks, his charming smile and his seductive French accent.

He perseveres, getting help from the only young woman who doesn't respond to his charms. But when Louise senses his despair at failing in his quest, she comes to the rescue. 

Hartwell House, Aylesbury.

Arnaut leaned his head back against the squabs and closed his eyes. He looked exhausted and Louise felt a stab of anguish that their mission had all been in vain. There was silence while she sought for words to comfort him. All at once he drew in a deep breath and sat up.

‘What a long day,’ he said, ‘but a successful one, thanks entirely to you and your estimable grandfather.’

‘Successful?’ She sat up, her weariness forgotten. ‘You gained his agreement?’

He beamed at her, his eyes shining. ‘Signed and sealed. Together with a bucketful of advice for a hot-headed young man, but I’m used to that sort of thing.’ He rolled his eyes comically. She laughed with relief at his improved mood.  He added in a more serious tone, ‘In addition, I learned an important lesson today. Now I’ll pity my brother Henri rather than envy him. Ouf!’ he threw up a hand to accompany the exclamation. ‘Diplomacy is nothing but waiting all day long for a few minutes’ conversation with the people in power.’ He made a comical face. ‘And also keeping calm and polite while waiting.' 

So now Arnaut begins to gain some self respect and confidence in his ability. He still has a long way to go, villains to outwit and a girl to woo. [and those London ladies haven't given up the chase, either.]

The Rake and His Honour

What's in a book ?

A precious find among the ruins

Photo by journalist  Hanna Liubakova

@HannaLiubakova

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Apr 23

Ukrainian firefighter saves books from a building destroyed by Russians in Chernihiv, #Ukraine

This photo is so moving. The utter devastation of a building destroyed, homes gone forever and lives blown apart. The Firefighter knows the books he's saving are most precious. They are a link with their owner's previous life, chosen stories or workbooks, old friends, and a source of comfort.   

                            

Be constructive, be kind.